South Downs: Ditchling in the mist

Ditchling, East Sussex, November 2024

This post describes a very foggy walk from the village of Ditchling in East Sussex, up onto Ditchling Beacon and the South Downs Way, and then back down to Ditchling via Westmeston.

Thanks to my walking amigo Jonathan who navigated the mist, stiles and flooded valley paths with aplomb.

I passed through the Ditchling stretch of the South Downs Way again in July 2026 during the summer of many heatwaves. The blog post to come on that will show an extremely different landscape to the one seen here. I’ll link to it here when it’s ready.

Ditchling’s settlement dates from Anglo-Saxon times (AD400-1066) and the name itself is Saxon, the name likely relating to ‘dykening’ which signifies an enclosed area of land. In the 11th Century Ditchling was known as ‘Diccelingum’.

There’s a Roman road running just north of the village. Henry Cheal describes the place in his History of Ditchling as a Roman stronghold, and that the earthworks on Ditchling Beacon are ‘distinctly Roman in character’. It was so misty up there on this walk that no earthworks could be seen.

More recently (lol), in Anglo-Saxon times Ditchling belonged to King Alfred the Great (871โ€“899). His father Ethelbert was buried at nearby Steyning. Alfred likely resided at Ditchling after defeating the Viking hordes.

Right, off we go.

This walk began at St. Margaret’s church. The church here is largely Norman in structure (1066-) and is noted in the Domesday Book (1086) but some of the foundations are believed to be Saxon and linked to Alfred. We didnโ€™t go into the church so itโ€™s just external photos here.

From the churchโ€™s hillock you can see the South Downs beyond and the timber-framed building of Anne of Cleves House. This photo was taken at the end of the walk. At the start it was so misty you couldnโ€™t actually see the Downs.

Anne of Cleves House, also known as Wings Place, is one of the finest Tudor mansions still standing (Historic England official listing). It’s called Anne of Cleves because it was given to her by Henry VIII after their divorce. She also received Anne of Cleves House in Lewes, where I got married in 2024!

The house as seen from across the road. There is a myth that Alfred lived here or built it. Jamie Theakston did, though.

The jetty-style windows indicate that this is a Tudor building (or older in this case).

A window that perhaps was once a doorway, judging by the steps.

In the village centre there are more timber-framed buildings to appreciate. 7 and 9 High Street dates to the 1500s.

I know the bin and bollard ruin it, but that’s modern life, folks. It probably would have been human waste and animal dung in centuries past.

Leaving the village there’s a charming old bit of signposting to THE DOWNS.

We followed the wonderful sign and headed south into very wet fields.

Said wet fields.

Oak trees were dotted among the hedgerows, as across much of the Low Weald. In the distance, the Downs were not visible.

The mist caught in the escarpment woodlands. We soon turned off the lane and headed up onto Burnhouse Bostall, the name of the trackway that takes you up onto the Downs. These are very old paths, with โ€˜bostall/bostalโ€™ being a Saxon word. It’s considered a Sussex version of ‘borstal’. A borstal is also a name for a juvenile detention centre, apparently.

We ascended on the bostall into the clouds. The clay was replaced with that treacherous slick of sloppy chalk.

The scenery was eerie, with visibility limited to perhaps 20m ahead.

Lone trees made excellent subjects in misty isolation.

Ditchling dewpond: this is an iconic landmark along the South Downs Way and was my first time visiting. We had passed through a gate off the bostall and turned east on the circular route.

A hawthorn at the pondโ€™s edge.

We carried on into even more thick mist – when does it become fog? – passing the trig point, which isnโ€™t pictured here.

Ash dieback was working its way through the escarpment woods, though itโ€™s not easy to tell dead winter trees from living at a distance.

Ditchling Beacon car park. We passed a group of London or Brighton walkers (always more colourfully dressed) and the bizarre sight of an ice cream van waiting for custom in the car park. According to the Ditchling historian Henry Cheal, there was a signalling station up here before electricity arrived. Further back, fires would have been burned to warn of the Spanish Armada in 1588. Not that it would have been much good on a day like this!

It was soon time to return down to Ditchling. We took this stile off the South Downs Way. Shame about the litter.

The path was very steep here, almost like a track in the Lake or Peak districts. This was Westmeston Bostall, running the edge of the lip of the site of an old chalk quarry.

An old yew tree marks the arrival at St. Martin’s churchyard in Westmeston.

Walking around the churchyard was a bit tricky as the path was made up of very slippery bricks. The church dates from the early 12th Century. It was locked so we couldn’t go in and explore, unfortunately.

The bell turret dates from the 14th Century but was ‘reshingled’ in 2003.

The western doorway. I would bet the stone frame is significantly old.

The north wall of the church, much of which dates from the 12th Century.

The timbers in the porch are as old as they look, with the gnarliest ones apparently dating to the 14th Century! That means the trees the wood was cut from could have been growing in pre-1066 Saxon England!

Looking west towards the church.

Heading north back towards Ditchling through Westmeston Place. We encountered more wet fields with yet more oaks standing in hedgerows.

Finding our way through groves of diseased ash woodland, we experienced the wettest, sloshiest conditions of the walk. The woodland floor was flooded, with mini boardwalks in place to save us from a swim.

The fallen ash wood contained communities of lichens. There’s at least four species I can spot here, with dotted ribbon lichen the most prominent. Ash is a very friendly home for lichens, another reason why its decline is so worrying. But it is showing some resolve (read my post about ash trees here).

This is oakmoss, a common lichen in Sussex.

It being November, there were a few shroomies to see in the woodland. These look like bonnets.

The final image before returning to Ditchling and completing the walk. The mist has lifted and finally the top of the Downs has come into view.

Thanks for reading.

#FungiFriday: how hunter gatherers used fungi to make fire

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King Alfred (not a hunter gatherer) burning a woman’s cakes ยฉ BBC Horrible Histories

Fungi Friday 17th July 2020

I have been taking an online archaeology course through the website FutureLearn. You can imagine my sheer delight when one of the sections was focused on, you guessed it, FUNGI!

The course explores the Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) archaeological site of Star Carr in Yorkshire. The fungi section of the course covers the species discovered at the site and what they might have been used for by the people living there between 15,000 and 5,000 years ago.

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Image of the Excavation site Star Carr located in North Yorkshire England. The image is a reconstruction Alan Sorrell’s reconstruction of Star Carr in 1951, Illustrated London News 3 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Mesolithic followed the Paleaeolithic (Old Stone Age) in 13,000BC, ending with the Neolithic (New Stone Age) around 5,000BC.

The Neolithic is seen as the period where human populations became more settled after the development of farming. These agricultural developments are what gave us much of the world we live in today. Current European farming techniques originated in the Middle East, slowly spreading west to replace the old hunting and gathering of the Mesolithic.

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Map of the spread of Neolithic farming cultures in Europe, dates in year BCE (via Wikimedia Commons)

But this isn’t Farmy Friday, so let’s get back to the pre-agricultural times when mushrooms were a key resource.

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King Alfred’s cakes

King Alfred’s cakes

The fungal finds at Star Carr have produced specimens of hoof fungus, willow bracket and birch polypore. This doesn’t include the species known as crampballs, King Alfred’s cakes, or in scientific language Daldinia concentrica. From experience, this is the fungus that people in Britain today most recognise as one which can be used in the process of making fire. This is probably because of the recent boom in bushcraft. The fungus gets its most evocative name of King Alfred’s cakes after an English folk story.

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To people outside the UK or without a grasp of English history, this name is quite meaningless. It is based on the tale of King Alfred who was exiled in the Somerset Levels during the Viking invasion of Winchester. Alfred failed to keep an eye on a woman’s loaves of bread that were on the fire and they burned. It is said that she had no idea he was the king, so far removed was he from his throne. Don’t worry, he eventually came back and pushed the Danes away a bit and established England.

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Birch polypore

Birch polypore

Last week I donated 1000 of my own words to the cause of bracket fungi. The findings from Star Carr have taught me about how these fungi were used by our ancient ancestors. Perhaps most interestingly, the fungi found were largely there because they had been foraged from elsewhere. Star Carr is a site next to a lake, so any woodland surrounding it will have been wet and it’s likely the people living there travelled to other places to gather fungi. There is evidence of the trading of ornaments and other items from across Europe, so people were not confined to the area itself in the way we live now.

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Birch polypore in winter, West Sussex

Birch polypore or razorstrop fungus haunts me out there in the woods. It is the one that catches the corner of my eye and fools me into thinking it’s autumn. It is a very common species where it acts to control population density. It plays a crucial ecological role in that it breaks birch trees down into nutrients and minerals, and therefore a substrate which can become soil. Fungi in woodlands are life-giving organisms. As a resource it was once used to sharpen tools in the manner of a leather strop, but it is also very useful in its ability to burn slowly and for long periods. This would have been crucial for people who were travelling and needed to make regular camps as we know Mesolithic peoples did.

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Birch trees coming into leaf in West Sussex

Birch trees

Birch is an incredible resource. Like fungi, it can be used to make fire. There is no doubt that birch will have been used by hunter-gatherers for this purpose. The bark was used to make slippers, matting, boxes, even canoes. At Star Carr birch bark rolls were discovered. The evidence is that they were cut from a tree and would have been used as torches. The ‘tar’ inside birch bark could have been extracted and used to secure flint arrow heads. Nowadays it’s known for being able to make birch wine when the sap begins to run in spring.

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The Bavarian Forest

Hoof fungus and hunter gatherers

The image above is of a dead beech tree covered in bracket fungi. Hoof fungus, so named because it looks like a horse’s hoof, appears to be a key species in Mesolithic Europe. It’s present across the Northern Hemisphere so it will also have been of use to Native American peoples. It has another common name of tinder fungus. An important material deriving from hoof fungus is amadou. This is the spongy inside of hoof fungus that can be used to make embers. The video below by the team at Star Carr shows how it can be used, along with pyrite, to make a fire. This is exactly what people in Mesolithic times would have done.

It just goes to show how resourceful people were in the Stone Age. It also reminds us of how important fungi has been to us, not just on the ecological level of recycling organic matter and its place in the woodland ecosystem. It helped to keep people warm and therefore alive.

Thanks for reading!

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